The Solitary Gourmet Goes Global

Staff Writer Kuo Yi Quan reviews The Solitary Gourmet (2024), the latest addition to the beloved Japanese culinary series.

The Solitary Gourmet (or 孤独のグルメ, Kodoku no Gourmet) is based on a Japanese cuisine manga series by Masayuki Qusumi and Jiro Taniguchi about a middle-aged travelling salesman Goro Inogashira who has a penchant for exploring local eateries. The manga received a televised drama adaptation on TV Tokyo, starring Yutaka Matsushige as the stoic salaryman, gaining popularity in Japan for its understated portrayal of the simple joys of solo dining. After a successful 9 season run, the series received a silver-screen adaptation in conjunction with TV Tokyo’s 60th anniversary. Matsushige helms this latest film adaptation as the writer and director.

The movie opens with the suited businessman arriving in Paris, France, paying a visit to an old friend’s home, where he learns of a grandpa’s wish to taste a particular soup from his childhood. Inogashira resolves to help the old man and is thus assigned the seemingly-impossible task of hunting down ingredients for the soup recipe that has been lost to time. Along the way, he tastes the local fare, (quite literally) gets thrown off course, and meets many interesting individuals along the way who help him in his search.

It is hard not to be endeared to Inogashira’s character— his deceptively average appearance belies an earnest zeal towards eating that is both charming and fun to watch. This is in no small part due to Matsushige’s seasoned portrayal of the character, and being a first-time viewer of the Solitary Gourmet franchise, I couldn’t help but marvel at the physicality and expressiveness of Matsushige’s performance which is tinged with humour without veering too much into slapstick. So much of the audience’s understanding of the character comes from observing cues from his body language; from Inogashira’s stance and priceless expressions to his purposeful stride, Matsushige perfectly embodies the salaryman with an infectious enthusiasm for food.

Inogashira’s feature debut retains the key factors of the series’ winning formula: a focus on homestyle cooking and hole-in-the-wall eateries and the simple, small joy he derives from his meals. As an avid enjoyer of cooking vlogs and food programs including Japanese cuisine television series Midnight Diner: Tokyo Stories (2009-2014) (Matsushige stars in the pilot episode as the stoic Yakuza Ryu and reprises his role as a regular patron at the diner), I appreciated the food documentary-style close-up shots of the dishes, and the montages of the food being prepared. These were of course accompanied by Inogashira’s meticulous voiceover narrations rife with puns, trivia, and his earnest observations.

Each sequence of Inogashira eating is executed with intent and an attention to detail which makes evident his reverence for the entire gastronomical experience: from ordering, to waiting for the meal (and sometimes getting to watch the food being prepared), and finally getting to enjoy it. As you might imagine, Inogashira chows down with a lot of gusto– which is not to say that he scarfs down his food– he savours each bite, chewing consideringly and thoroughly as he formulates his thoughts in a steady stream of inner monologue and occasional exclamations. His unadulterated, unselfconscious enjoyment of the food is in equal parts (and perhaps paradoxically,) appetite-stirring and satisfying to watch.

Adapting the episodic series for the big screen meant more opportunity for plot and thematic development to take place in between Inogashira’s mealtimes. The plot follows the typical quest trope, and the movie relishes in drawing out its events (making it feel somewhat draggy and repetitive at times). To make up for its lack of a fresh plot, the film’s heart shines through Inogashira’s character.

Contrary to what his moniker might suggest, Inogashira is by no means lonely or reclusive. He is unafraid to reach out to individuals he meets along the way, and inadvertently brings people together in a shared appreciation of good grub which transcends culture, and even language (in a memorable cameo by South Korean actor Yoo Jae Myung). The palpable sense of community formed through a universal love for food is enough to give anyone the warm fuzzies.

Matsushige’s directorial debut showcases the beauty of urban and rural landscapes, from quiet towns on Goto Islands, Nagasaki, to the bustle of Tokyo. Look out for Inogashira’s signature tagline “...I’m… hungry” accompanied by the iconic 3-point pullback, and the delightful meta twist near the end (no spoilers though). The delightful symphony of clattering utensils and mouth-watering food insert shots are sure to satisfy foodies and mukbang fans.

The Solitary Gourmet is not the pinnacle of culinary filmmaking, nor does it endeavour to be. It remains true to its roots of serving simple, homestyle fare with a fun, feel-good message. It might not be everyone’s bowl of soup, but it definitely warmed my heart.

The Solitary Gourmet opens 27 March at The Projector.